Common Washer and Dryer Problems We Fix

Washer Will Not Spin or Agitate

A washer that fills with water but sits still is one of the most common issues we see. This leaves you with soaking wet clothes that are too heavy to move. It can be caused by a safety lock issue or a mechanical drive failure.

Likely causes:

• Broken lid switch or door lock assembly
• Worn or snapped drive belt
• Failed motor coupling
• Defective shift actuator
• Motor control board failure

How we diagnose it:

We test the lid switch first, as it is the most common safety feature that cuts power to the motor. We then inspect the belt and pulley system underneath the unit. On digital units, we check the error history for motor fault codes.

What you can do right now:

Check if the “Child Lock” feature is activated on the control panel. Also, try redistributing the clothes if the load is unbalanced, as many machines will stop spinning to prevent damage.

Dryer Is Not Heating

If your dryer spins but the clothes come out cold and wet, the heating system has failed. This is frustrating and inefficient. The cause depends heavily on whether you have a gas or electric model.

Likely causes:

• Burned out heating element (Electric)
• Weak gas valve igniter (Gas)
• Tripped thermal fuse
• Failed flame sensor
• Bad timer or control board

How we diagnose it:

For electric dryers, we test the element and power cord for 240V continuity. For gas dryers, we observe the igniter glow. If it glows but does not light the gas, the coils or igniter are usually the culprit.

What you can do right now:

Check your circuit breaker. Electric dryers run on a double breaker. Sometimes one half trips, allowing the motor to run (120V) but cutting power to the heater (240V).

Washer Is Leaking Water

Puddles on the floor are a slip hazard and a risk to your home’s structure. Leaks can occur during the fill cycle, the wash cycle, or the drain cycle, which helps us pinpoint the source.

Likely causes:

• Cracked or loose fill hoses
• Worn door boot seal (Front loaders)
• Leaking drain pump
• Loose internal hose clamps
• Tub seal failure

How we diagnose it:

We remove the service panel and run the machine, looking for drip trails. We carefully inspect the rubber door gasket on front loaders for small tears caused by zippers or keys.

What you can do right now:

Tighten the connections where the hot and cold water hoses meet the wall and the back of the machine. Inspect the rubber washers inside the hose ends.

Dryer Making Loud Noises

A dryer should be a hum, not a rhythmic thumping or a high-pitched squeal. Loud noises usually indicate that the drum support system is wearing out.

Likely causes:

• Worn drum support rollers
• Idler pulley bearing failure
• Worn drum glides
• Loose blower wheel
• Object caught in the specialized lint trap area

How we diagnose it:

We listen to the type of sound. A rhythmic thump often means a flat spot on a roller. A squeal suggests the idler pulley or belt tensioner. We disassemble the cabinet to visually inspect these moving parts.

What you can do right now:

Check the inside of the drum for loose change, buttons, or zippers that might be hitting the metal. Also, verify the dryer is level.

Washer Won’t Drain

If your cycle ends and there is still water standing in the tub, the drain system is blocked or broken. This prevents the door from unlocking and stops the final spin.

Likely causes:

• Clogged drain pump filter (coin trap)
• Small item (sock, baby clothes) stuck in the pump
• Failed drain pump motor
• Kinked drain hose
• Control board not sending power to the pump

How we diagnose it:

We clamp the drain hose and check the pump filter for debris. We test the pump motor for resistance and verify it receives voltage when the drain cycle is selected.

What you can do right now:

If you have a front loader with a small access door at the bottom, open it and check the emergency drain hose and filter cap (have a towel ready).

Dryer Takes Too Long to Dry

If you have to run the dryer two or three times to get clothes dry, it is almost always an airflow issue. The dryer cannot vent the moist air, so the clothes stay damp.

Likely causes:

• Clogged home venting system
• Crushed transition hose behind the dryer
• Blower wheel packed with lint
• Moisture sensor strips coated in residue
• Cycling thermostat failing

How we diagnose it:

We disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer and run a load. If it dries quickly, the problem is in your home’s ductwork, not the machine. We also test the temperature of the exhaust air.

What you can do right now:

Clean your lint trap before every single load. Check the outdoor vent hood to make sure the flap opens freely and isn’t blocked by bird nests or lint.

Washer Shakes Violently

A washer that “walks” across the room or bangs loudly during the spin cycle is usually suffering from a suspension failure or an leveling issue.

Likely causes:

• Worn suspension rods (Top load)
• Failed shock absorbers (Front load)
• Broken tub springs
• Machine not level on the floor
• Counterweight loose or broken

How we diagnose it:

We push down on the tub to test the rebound of the suspension. If it bounces like a basketball, the rods or shocks are worn out. We also check the leveling feet.

What you can do right now:

Try to rock the machine by pushing on the corners. If it wobbles, adjust the feet until it is rock solid on the floor.

Washer Smells Like Mildew

Bad odors are common in front-loading washers. Mold and bacteria can grow behind the door seal and in the outer tub, transferring smells to your clean clothes.

Likely causes:

• Mold growth on the door boot seal
• Soap scum buildup in the outer tub
• Clogged drain filter retaining dirty water
• Using too much detergent

How we diagnose it:

We inspect the folds of the door gasket and the detergent dispenser. We also check for drainage issues that might leave standing water in the sump.

What you can do right now:

Run a “Clean Washer” cycle with hot water and a specialized cleaner tablet or bleach. Leave the door open between loads to let the drum dry out.