Common Stove and Oven Problems We Fix

Gas Burner Will Not Light

Turning the knob and hearing a click but seeing no flame is a common frustration for gas stove owners. This can be caused by a lack of gas flow or a failure in the ignition system. In older Grafton homes, this can sometimes be related to debris blocking the gas ports.

Likely causes:

• Clogged burner ports from food spills
• Cracked or worn spark electrode
• Failed spark module
• Defective ignition switch harness
• Moisture in the burner assembly

How we diagnose it:

We test for the presence of a spark. If there is a spark but no flame, we inspect the gas path and burner caps. If there is no spark, we use a multimeter to trace the electrical signal from the knob to the module.

What you can do right now:

Lift the burner cap and look for any food debris blocking the small holes. Clean them gently with a toothbrush or a paperclip, but be careful not to widen the holes.

Oven Is Not Heating

An oven that stays cold is useless. Whether you have gas or electric, the system relies on a heat source and a thermostat. A failure in either prevents the oven from reaching temperature.

Likely causes:

• Weak or broken gas igniter (glow bar)
• Burned out electric bake or broil element
• Tripped thermal fuse
• Defective safety valve
• Control board relay failure

How we diagnose it:

For gas ovens, we observe the igniter. If it glows but takes more than 90 seconds to light the gas, it is too weak to open the safety valve. For electric ovens, we test the element for continuity and verify voltage delivery from the board.

What you can do right now:

Check your circuit breaker. Electric ovens run on a double breaker (240V). Sometimes one leg of the power trips, leaving the lights working but the heat off.

Oven Bakes Unevenly

If your cookies burn on one side or cakes fall in the middle, your oven is struggling with heat distribution or regulation. This is often a sensor issue or a mechanical failure in the circulation system.

Likely causes:

• Drifting temperature sensor
• Broken convection fan motor
• Worn door gasket leaking heat
• Blocked airflow vents (from foil on the bottom)
• Calibration needed

How we diagnose it:

We use a digital thermometer to measure the internal temperature swings over time. We inspect the convection fan to ensure it spins freely and check the door seal for gaps using a dollar bill test.

What you can do right now:

Remove any aluminum foil you have placed on the bottom of the oven. This reflects heat incorrectly and blocks airflow, causing significant baking issues.

Electric Element Not Working

On an electric stove, a burner that stays dark or only works on “High” is a safety hazard and a cooking nuisance. This applies to both exposed coil elements and hidden radiant elements under glass.

Likely causes:

• Burned out heating element
• Defective infinite switch (the control knob)
• Loose wire connection at the terminal block
• Burnt receptacle (for coil burners)

How we diagnose it:

We swap the non-working element with a working one (if possible) to isolate the problem. We test the switch to see if it regulates voltage correctly at different settings.

What you can do right now:

For coil tops, ensure the element is pushed firmly into the receptacle. Loose connections often cause arcing and failure.

Oven Door Is Stuck Shut

This panic-inducing problem often happens after running a self-cleaning cycle. The heat causes the safety latch to engage, and if the sensor or switch fails, the door remains locked even after the oven cools down.

Likely causes:

• Failed door lock motor assembly
• Bad door switch sensor
• Control board logic error
• Warped door frame from high heat

How we diagnose it:

We attempt to manually override the lock mechanism to open the door safely. We then test the lock motor and switches to see which component failed to release.

What you can do right now:

Do not force the door open, as you will break the glass or the latch. Turn off the breaker for 5 minutes to reset the computer, which sometimes releases the lock.

Smell of Gas

A gas smell is a serious safety concern. While a faint whiff when lighting a burner is normal, a persistent smell indicates a leak. This requires immediate attention.

Likely causes:

• Leaking gas valve
• Loose gas line connection
• Igniter failing to light the gas quickly enough
• Cracked supply line

How we diagnose it:

We use electronic gas detectors and bubble solution to verify the source of the leak. We inspect the safety valve to ensure it is closing fully when the oven is off.

What you can do right now:

If the smell is strong, shut off the gas supply, leave the house, and call your utility company immediately. Do not turn lights on or off.

Glass Cooktop is Cracked

Ceramic glass tops are tough but not invincible. Dropping a heavy pot or a spice jar can cause a crack. A cracked cooktop is unsafe to use because liquids can seep into the high-voltage electrical components below.

Likely causes:

• Impact from a heavy object
• Thermal shock (cold pot on hot surface)
• Overtightening installation screws

How we diagnose it:

This is a visual inspection. We determine if the crack affects the structural integrity and safety of the unit.

What you can do right now:

Stop using the cooktop immediately. Using a cracked surface risks electrical shock and shorting out the entire range.

Control Panel or Display Issues

If the oven beeps randomly, displays an error code, or the clock is dim, the electronic “brain” of the appliance is failing. This is common after power surges or in older units.

Likely causes:

• Main control board failure
• Touchpad membrane ribbon cable shorted
• Power surge damage
• Loose wiring harness

How we diagnose it:

We test the input voltage to the board and check the ribbon cable connection. We often perform a button matrix test to see if the touchpad is registering inputs.

What you can do right now:

Try flipping the circuit breaker off for one minute and then back on. This “reboot” can sometimes clear temporary logic glitches.